Why is Finland so Blooming Happy?
- Bill Murray
- Sep 2, 2025
- 3 min read
Updated: Sep 3, 2025

There’s something special about arriving in a city still clinging to summer. The air is soft, the streets alive, and locals move at an easy holiday pace.
Our journey began as all good ones should — smoothly. From the calm of Heathrow’s No1 Lounge at Terminal 3, Finnair carried us north in comfort. Check-in was effortless, the aircraft sleek and bright, and the crew’s warmth elevated even a short-haul flight. At Helsinki Airport, arrivals took under 20 minutes, and with the excellent HSL app, we were in the city within 45.
Our first base, the Scandic Grand Central, is a cleverly restored wing of Helsinki’s Central Station. Vaulted ceilings, art deco corridors, and rooms filled with northern light made an instant impact. Breakfast — rye bread, smoked salmon, porridge with lingonberries — was simple but memorable. The bar and lounge, with soft jazz and warm interiors, felt like a tribute to the golden age of train travel.
Next came the Crowne Plaza Hesperia, overlooking Hesperia Park and the water. More contemporary in style, it offered club rooms with skyline views and one of the best gyms and wellness centres we’ve ever seen in a city hotel — spacious, spotless, with sauna and pool. A perfect counterbalance to long sightseeing days.
Compact and walkable, Helsinki is easy to navigate. A first highlight was Linnanmäki Amusement Park, where retro rides sat happily beside modern thrills. The 1951 wooden rollercoaster — built the year the city hosted the post-war Olympics — is a rattling piece of living history.
Food was a constant joy. A guided tour with Maria took us from the Old Market Hall to Hakaniemi Market, tasting breads topped with white fish, pastries, cheeses, and the inevitable Fazer chocolate. Informative, delicious, and a wonderful welcome.
For a change of pace, the Paradox Museum delivered plenty of laughs with its illusions, while the Museum of Finnish Architecture was far more accessible and engaging than expected. We also lingered at Oodi Central Library — a soaring public space that’s part cultural hub, part design statement, and part playground. Whether to read, work, or just pause, it felt like a love letter to community life.
Tours added fresh layers. With Juho from Helsinki Tuk Tours, we zipped between Soviet blocks and hip new districts, his stories full of humour and insight. Later, a city cruise (included with the Helsinki Card) took us past Suomenlinna, the UNESCO fortress island. Stoic and windswept, it told its history well, with superb views back to the city.
Dining in Helsinki is consistently impressive. At Kuurna, a neighbourhood bistro, white fish and pepper steak were cooked to perfection, followed by a feather-light mille-feuille. At Restaurant Nokka, a tasting menu leaned into local ingredients: earthy reindeer, fresh king crab, and birch stick ice creams foraged by the chefs themselves. Our waitress, Nicha, guided us with warmth and expertise.
For pure adrenaline, we tried Fööni, the indoor skydiving centre near the Redi Mall. Safe, clean, and brilliantly run, it was exhilarating and inclusive — a highlight for everyone.Another day we hopped aboard the Eckerö Line ferry to Tallinn. Just two hours away, the crossing was a treat, with Nordic buffets, live music, and a private cabin for downtime. Tallinn’s cobbled charm made a fine contrast, though a couple of days is plenty.
And then there was the Allas Sea Pool near the glorious Old Food Market — modern, stylish, yet rooted in tradition. Right on the harbour, it offers saunas, heated pools, and icy seawater plunges for around €25. Watching locals leap into the Baltic before settling with a drink by the water felt like the essence of Finland: simple pleasures, done beautifully.
It’s easy to see why Finland tops the global happiness charts year after year. Streets are clean, public spaces respected, transport reliable, and life moves at a calm, measured pace. Everywhere — whether library, market, or fine dining restaurant — accessibility and thoughtfulness were built in.
Leaving Helsinki, we felt lighter. Finland doesn’t overwhelm with spectacle or try to dazzle. Instead, it invites you to share in its rhythm: to plunge into cold water, to walk tree-lined streets, to laugh at illusions, to eat simply but well.
It wasn’t just a holiday. It was a reminder of how to live well.























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