Blooming Times: Top of the Pots

Plant pots come in many forms and a seasonal potted display will bring a dynamic quality to your garden. Flo Whitaker takes a look at the different types available 

Terracotta pots have been around for thousands of years. Their natural appearance suits all types of plants and garden styles. Unglazed terracotta is porous, breathable and moisture-retentive – a welcome environment for plant roots. Alas, these qualities make terracotta vulnerable to winter damage. Frozen moisture expands, which may result in stress cracking. Budget-priced pots are often first to succumb as they are fired at lower temperatures, so retain greater porosity. 

However, no pot – whatever the price tag, can be guaranteed frostproof. Cossett your favourite, (or most expensive!) pots by keeping them undercover in winter, or wrapping them with frost-resistant fleece - and be prepared to replace others when they fail.

Stone urns and planters exude a quiet, almost regal sense of permanence. Real stone is super-expensive, but containers made from ‘reconstituted’ materials, (pulverised stone offcuts mixed with concrete) are extremely robust and look better as they age.

Timber planters, such as half-barrels and fruit crates, along with wooden trugs and baskets give a rustic feel. When using wood, be vigilant about slugs, as they’ll sneakily hide away in damp crevices where the soil and wooden edges meet.

Sleek metal troughs offer a contemporary, slightly industrial look, whereas lead containers exude country house style. Real lead artifacts have heart-stopping price tags, but ‘faux’ fibreglass versions are very convincing. Steel planters are extremely strong and durable, but can become incredibly hot in summer and transfer heat into the soil. 

Consider the location and the type of plants you intend growing; a Mediterranean-style planting scheme may thrive in warmed, drier soil, whereas shade-loving woodland plants will not.

Container gardening allows you to easily move plants; bringing them into the spotlight as they peak and removing them when flowering ceases. Plant short-lived flowers, (such as spring bulbs) in ordinary plastic pots, then bury them up to their rims into large patio containers. As the blooms fade, excavate the pots and insert others in their place to maintain a continuous display. An awkward-shaped pot can be lined with a plastic one, making it much easier to plant up. You can’t fall in love with plastic pots, but they’re super-practical.

Almost anything has the potential to be a plant holder. If quirkiness appeals, charity shops and jumble sales offer bargain-priced ‘kitchenalia’ that’s just waiting to be repurposed. Two of my favourite finds include a Victorian soup tureen and a vintage wire mesh basket, which, when lined with moss, makes a charming home for dainty primroses and violets.

Plants in open ground can forage for their needs but containerised ones rely on you to provide sustenance. Standard potting compost includes sufficient feed for approximately six weeks. After that, additional feed will be required throughout the growing season; either added to compost in a slow-release form, or mixed into water and regularly applied as a root drench. General-purpose feed is fine, but application rates differ, depending on the plant, so carefully read the instructions! 

Perennials may only need a couple of feeds in spring/early summer, while fast-growing annuals and edibles, such as tomatoes and peppers require a weekly supplement. Containerised trees and shrubs appreciate a springtime mulch of compost, leaf mould and slow-release fertiliser. Foliar feeds, (often labelled as seaweed tonic) are brilliant. They do not feed directly, but give a general boost that helps plants efficiently process a wide spectrum of nutrients. 

Successful container gardening can be summed up with the phrase ‘Right plant – right container’. Ephemeral bedding plants tolerate confined spaces, whereas permanent shrubs and trees demand significant volumes of soil. Consider their long-term needs and give them sufficient space to reach mature size. Large shrubs offer significant wind-resistance. Several house bricks buried at the base of a pot will help prevent them blowing over. Greedy, big-rooted characters, such as roses, also appreciate substantial pots and humus-rich compost. Lillies love tall pots, as do sweet peas and runner beans. Again, weight the base to prevent disaster. Tall pots will also nicely show off plants with a cascading habit.

Left unplanted, large decorative pots can be used as ‘eye-catchers’. When strategically positioned at the end of a path or boundary edge, they have a curious ability to make spaces appear bigger; horizons extend and paths lengthen. If you have a pocket-sized patio, avoid masses of small pots – they’ll just add claustrophobic clutter. Instead, invest in several large containers, each planted with a permanent shrub and underplanted to give seasonal interest. Remember; good foliage and form have longer visual appeal than fleeting flowers alone. A tabletop display is the perfect place for tiny pots. Group together a collection of petite plants that can be better admired from a raised position.

Structural elements can affect plant growth. For example; a south-facing aspect should give optimal sunlight, but if the site is bordered by a shade-casting wall, light levels may be significantly reduced. Every garden is different. Experiment by moving pots around, then you’ll discover what grows best where.

Finally; keep on top of basic maintenance. In a mixed border, an unsecured climber casually flopping over a wonky shrub can be excused as 'charmingly cottagey' – but pots have a more disciplined outlook that does not suit slouchy, chaotic plantings. Use plant supports early and judiciously. If a thug threatens a take-over, move it, or brandish the secateurs. Be vigilant for pests and diseases, deadhead regularly, enhance permanent plantings with seasonal additions and your pots will give interest all year round.