Bill Murray goes “Double Dutch” on a two centre trip to Holland

Advertising Feature: 35 years ago I lived in Holland. After some serious reminiscing I thought it would be lovely to take my two grown-up children back and see how it had changed. We decided to do it in style, by taking the Eurostar service direct from St Pancras to Amsterdam.

In September, we jumped on a direct train from Brighton to St Pancras and simply switched platforms for an Intercontinental adventure. Upon boarding the Eurostar, it immediately evokes a special feeling, like an epic train journey from the movies. You can choose to travel in either Standard, Standard Premier or Business Premier. The premier options mean you receive a light meal onboard, and the Standard option gives you access to the café Metropole on board. We travelled in Business Standard and the journey through France and Belgium slipped past beautifully at 200KPH. With no changes, it arrives into Amsterdam’s Central Station in three hours and 45 minutes. After a delicious meal with drinks the trip was anything but arduous, in fact, it was a very comfortable travelling experience. Admittedly, the Wi-Fi is intermittent, which, as I’d already downloaded my newspaper, didn’t bother me (unlike Miss and Master Murray who struggled the entire route to get connected to their socials). So far, so good!

Unlike flying, you can check-in up to 30 minutes before on Standard/Standard Premier. Business Premier passengers can even arrive up to 10 minutes before departure. However, I advise getting there an hour before, as if you’re anything like me, check-in queues can be a pretty stressful experience. Once you've arrived, I recommend a trip to the ‘IAmsterdam’ office. A very helpful tourist office that can arrange the 72-hour city travel and museum/special events entry card. It even includes bikes and a very genteel canal tour of the city. These cards are a must for weekenders and short-term holidaymakers. 

We stayed at Inntel Hotel’s Amsterdam Landmark hotel. Not far from the beating heart of Amsterdam, and within a 5-minute cycle ride (although riding a bike is a considered a dangerous sport here) from the National Maritime Museum and the wonderfully edgy Tropenmuseum. This spa hotel is also near the Rembrandt House Museum and a short tram ride from Leidseplein where the fun side of Amsterdam awaits you. The hotel was great, but it is next to a building site at the moment, so we found it a bit noisy in the mornings. Hotel amenities included a gym, indoor pool and a sauna. We weren't around long enough to try the Bar & Brasserie Werkspoor but it looked pretty good, and you can sit outside by the water’s edge. Altogether, a good ‘chilled’ choice for those not bothered about being ‘slap bang’ in the city centre. 

We were advised that Cafe Stork was the restaurant of the moment, so we headed up North. We had a combination of hot and cold seafood platters which blew my mind. Delicious Razor clams, mussels and some of the best oysters I've ever eaten. The pièce de résistance however was the Snow Crab Legs. Simply divine. Cafe Stork is well worth the ferry trip and minor outing to the north of the city. An area that is being quickly developed into a Brighton Marina meets Borough Market style set up. 

It is apparent that Amsterdam is growing and changing considerably with that growth. The tourist traps such as the ‘Red light district’ and the “Coffee shops” serving exotic cigarettes are now diminishing. Current policy dictates that this kind of activity will be gradually reduced down and eventually phased out. Amsterdam wants to grow up and dispose of the L plates, ladies in windows and inflatable phalluses. Time will tell if the arts will prevail. Certainly, the modernised Rijksmuseum and the newly revamped Van Gogh exhibition are indications that culture is winning. After gorging on Tony’s Chocolonely on tap at their chocolate cafe and a VIP trip around the Heineken Brewery we waddled South to Holland’s Premier theme park to burn off the calories. 

Efteling is near Den Bosch - an hour’s rail journey from Amsterdam’s Central station. Founded in the 1950’s, Efteling features a Fairytale theme, with a Forest (Sprookjesbos) that beautifully retells some well-known folk tales. This must be one of the most beautiful natural settings for any theme park in the world. The quality of the theme and the standard of the rides is breath taking. At almost 500 acres, Efteling’s layout is still very organic, having grown little by little over the course of six decades. It’s rides, attractions and the rollercoasters and truly special. The park’s headline live show Raveleijn is also a must. Featuring stunt knights, horses, cool magic tricks, a wonderful castle setting and a huge mediaeval feast to follow, it’s an unforgettable evening.

With all food and drinks included at €55 a head it was pretty good value too. The Pancake restaurant is divine and the banquet is a must. English language menus are readily available and everyone speaks great English. Although there are hotels on site, we stayed at a Park Bosrijk self-catering house which was beautiful. Just 15 minutes from the park, the house was faultless and you even had a Dutch breakfast hung on your door each morning. It's pretty good value too. You can book a house for around €600 per night that sleeps six, or book a hotel from around €200 per night. Tickets for the day are €45 per person and cheaper for children. 

And before we knew it, we were homeward bound on the wonderfully comfortable Amsterdam to St Pancras Eurostar. Going Dutch indeed going ‘Double Dutch’ as we did was such a breath of fresh air. Holland is a country at ease with itself and with its visitors. I certainly won't be leaving it another 35 years to make a return journey. 

Getting to and staying in Amsterdam and Efteling: 
Train
Eurostar has a direct service between London and Amsterdam. A return ticket is priced at £358pp (based on travelling 24-27 October 2022). Tickets available at www.eurostar.com From Amsterdam Centraal, visitors can catch a connecting train to ‘s-Hertogenbosch (Den Bosch). A return ticket is priced at £18-32. Tickets available www.ns.nl 
Ferry
DFDS offers return ferry crossings from Dover to Calais. A return ticket for one car is priced at £136 (based on travelling 24-26 October 2022). Tickets available www.dfds.com 
Flying
Return EasyJet tickets from London Luton to Amsterdam can be purchased for £149pp (based on travelling 24-27 October 2022). Tickets available www.easyjet.com 

Driving
Eurotunnel is available from Folkestone to Calais. A return ticket for one car is priced at around £150. (based on travelling 24-26 October 2022). Tickets available www.eurotunnel.com 
Hotel in Amsterdam (around €200 per night) 
Intell hotels. www.intellhotelsamsterdamlandmark.nl 
Overnight stays at Efteling 
For everyone wishing to enjoy Winter Efteling for a longer time, Efteling offers overnight stays at Efteling Hotel, Holiday Park Bosrijk, Efteling Loonsche Land and Loonsche Land Hotel.